Day 4, Menerbes, OppEde le Vieux

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Neil shows emJay—again—how to start up the GPS. Very important to get this right!

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Off we go on our beautiful day of small roads, medieval towns, lovely vistas….

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Agriculture includes vineyards, squash, pumpkins, lavender, millet and fruit trees—most are irrigated in one way or another.

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Here is one interesting way—drip irrigation around every tree!

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Winding and yes, sometimes steep route today!

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Menerbes lies ahead on the top of a hill….

Pammy turns the corner and gets ready to climb  up to the top . . .

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Friends Tom and Pierre told us not to miss the most beautiful villages of France! Thanks to you both for your great advice. Pierre grew up in Provence, and is now in Wisconsin. Tom spent a semester abroad nearby in Avignon just a few years back.

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Heading UP into Menerbes past the beautiful sycamore trees….

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Past lovely flowers including hibiscus….

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New business for emJay, a classy shop for ladies!

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Funny graffiti, good artist! S/he’s got talent!

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Groovy folk art mailbox that emJay has asked Rick to build a replica of when we are back in Wisconsin.

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Yes, I would take this house!

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As we stood at a scenic overlook, one of us noticed that it is coming apart from the rest of the structure.  Yikes!

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Nature mystery of the day: what is this tiny, three inch long, snake that we encountered in Menerbes?!

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Sigh…what a view! Overlooking farms and villages, including our community of Coustellet, about 10 km away.

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And a good view of Mount Ventoux. You can see the white monument on the top.

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Next stop was Oppede le Vieux, an interesting small town that was half destroyed by an earthquake 300 years ago. We headed to the village square …

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…where the good shoppers John and Terry laid out the goods they had picked up at the morning market in Coustellet village.

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We noshed on the goodies, filled our water bottles and picked up a few bieres….

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…and what a yummy spread it was! Fresh pears. Incredible cheese. Tasty sausage made of wild boar. Hummus and pesto to spread on rustic bread. And oh, did I tell you about the pastries?! Oh my gosh. Apple, berry, almond gallettes.

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. . . and of course fresh bread!!!

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After a quick hike around the ruins, we are off to our next town.

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Gary passes a stone wall, many of which frame our rides.

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Here comes Bobbie, not far behind!

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Typical home along the way, with interesting turret for detail….

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A brief stop in Maubec to pose for that elusive holiday photo….

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…is the close up better!?

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Here is the view from that spot as we head down the hill and onward.

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At Les Taillades, we pass this water mill and canal. Note the grove of plane trees to the left.

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Bobbie coasts down the hill after yet another scenic town.

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As we head back to our B and B, we passed these apple trees protected from varmints by this netting.

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…or maybe this one for our Christmas card? By the mill and the sycamore trees.

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The end of our ride passed by more scenic water engineering projects. Hot and sweaty, next on the list is a splash in the pool followed by dinner out tonight. A wonderful day!

Day 3, Coustellet

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The day started with breakfast and a map meeting with Neil. Tasty muesli, yogurt, fresh fruit and pastries!! And a review of the highlights of our upcoming ride.

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Johnny is always ready to go with his tool!

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This is the family kitchen at the B and B. We try to help out but sometimes maybe we are in the way! Neil  and Nat are gracious and make us feel at home.

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Here we are, in front of the fountain at the house, ready for our first riding adventure!

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Our ride took us through the Luberon region which is filled with lovely villages and nature…

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…and some homes literally built into caves in the hillside.

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Funny…self-advertising as a charming hotel! Wonder if it lives up to its promise?

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Mystical morning fog…scenic vineyards…and the ever-present graffiti!

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Traditional architectural style is used even on new buildings today: thick stone walls, little wood used, small windows –or none—on the north side, to guard against the strong mistral winds of winter.

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emJay finds her favorite lawn ornament!

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Some grape harvesting is done by hand, and big machines like this one are also used.

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Nice garden café in a front yard!

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One couple traveled with their puppy. Nice!

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Great viewing along the old railway grade trail we started on this morning.

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Our Garmin GPS  guides us precisely along the route, including under roads through tunnels.

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Our first major stop was Apt on the big market day.

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Wonderful soaps of Provence!

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Bustling street scene. 9:00 to 1:00 then done!

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Bobbie, Gary enjoy some vin et poulet!

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Happy wife, happy life!

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Flowers are everywhere . . . even lining the bridges!!!

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Leaving Apt, we enjoy a long gradual climb up to Bonnieux. Beautiful views across the valley.

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Bonnieux beckons. Neil says the Protestant churches are below like this, and the Catholic churches are on the highest perch of the town.

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The pretty ride into town…

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All stopped at the old Roman bridge

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Pont Julien, a Roman bridge dating from 3 BC.

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Some of us discovered the eco-toilet near the Roman bridge….

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..complete with detailed educational charts on what happens you can read as you are seated! Good to know I guess?!!

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L’Escargot de Provence. Wild snails adorn the plants along the bike trail.

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For your security – the submarines are helping out too?!

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A typical scene as you enter a village. Kodak moment around every corner!!!

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The B and B kitty Rocket is not so sure about today’s activities….

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At the end of the day, some of us dipped into the chilly pool. after 3 or 4 laps it felt fine, sure!

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The yard has a pomegranate tree!

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mmmmm juicy little seeds exposed….

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The day ended with a lovely dinner under the pergola, prepared by chef Neil. Delicious regional wines, locally grown tomatoes, chorizo loaf, spaghetti and meat balls, molten chocolate cake.  Perfect end to a great day.

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Rick has been quite taken by the “man scarves” we see around Provence. So he tries one out and looks quite fetching….

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Tomatoes, chorizo, sundried tomatoes and eggs baked together into a loaf….

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Diana gets emotional when the electric bike Neil arranged for her is delivered….

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And RIck and Neil are best buds by the time the evening is over! I guess Neil likes the man scarf look too?!

Day 2, Avignon – Coustellet

We had a quiet night at the monastery and woke at 9:30am to a sunny sky  . . . and breakfast ended at 10:00am . . . we rushed downstairs and had a delightful time . .

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Avignon is the former home of several  popes and is a walled  city. The six kilometer wall is still in place around the walled city and if one has the time you can walk the whole thing . . .we did not,. It was time to meet Diana and John . . .

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. . . .we decided to go to the Les Halles,indoor market to shop and eat lunch . . . narrow streets along the way. . . fr0203

. . .with bicycle riding police on the large avenues!!!!

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Of course the market was a gastronomic paradise with lots of sights and smells .. .

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. . .fish of every variety out on ice for easy inspection . . .

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. . . all kinds of fresh produce. . . .

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. . . and of course every kind and cut of meat . . ./some of which I didn’t want to know what they were !!!!!

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. . . .so of course we needed to eat again and enjoy a little vino . . . two bottles and it was only 11:45am  . . .  but hey, we are on holiday!!!!

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. . .and we were not the only one tasting a little of the grape. One of the local chefs stopped by, several, times to enjoy . . . .coffee!!!!

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. . . we walked along the streets to the car taking in the sights including a mailman on a bike  . . .

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. . .  lots of motorcycles parked along the way . . .the good kind (the kind that are not running)/ Including this new Gold Wing that reminded me of my old one. . . .

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. . . and of course the ever present Harley Davidson, even over here n the Continent riders love their Harley’s . . .

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Dianna and emJay did a little shopping along the way as we headed to the  … .

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Popes Palace. Centuries ago Rome was a war torn city and the Catholic Church decided to move the Papacy round Europe. Constantly moving it around was not working out so when a Frenchman was elected Pope, he and the King of France decided to build the Papal Palace in Avignon . . .

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. . .  a HUGE affair that was a very interesting tour . . .

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. . . and it went through many remodel’s during  the years, Makes out remodel at home look like child’s play!!!!!

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The grand dining hall.. . .

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. . . interesting the building now also hosts traveling art exhibits and there was one gong on while we visited . . .

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. . .  interesting mix of the old with the new . . . .

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When the Pope finally moved back to Rome. In the early 1800’s the military took over the palace and  where there until 1907 when the building was handed over to the city.

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Soon we were in the car and on our way to our B&B. . . .

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. . . . we met our host Neil, a Brit who has lived in France with is French wife Nat, for 13 years. He immediately broke out the vino . . .

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. . .  as we sat under their grape covered arbor . . .

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. .. .oh and the vino flowed and flowed . . . lots of Rose during the day . . .

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Yippeee . . .  we are al finally back together!!!!

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Next in order was a tour of the place . . . including a sitting area downstairs . . .

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John and Diana’s room . . .

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Bobby and Gary’s room . . .

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Pam and Terry’s room . . .

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. . . emJay and my room . . .

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. . . with a nice seating area . . .

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. . . and HUGE bathroom

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We reassembled for more wine and an explanation of the  GREAT touring system of maps and supplied GPS units Neil has developed through the years.

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. . . each bike has their own GPS. You pick one of 40 routes he has load on the GPS and just follow the purple line on the screen Just like I did on the Northern Tier. In fact  they are the Garmin 1000.!!!!

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He also ;led us through the greet selection of restaurants available along the way each day. Something for everyone, even mbbt  members. The VFM designation stand for Value For Money!!!!!

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It soon was time for dinner and the eight of us walked into town and had a lovely meal . . .

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. . . emJay had the grilled ravioli with grill goat cheese rounds . . .

salmon

. .. .while I had three kinds of smoked salmon.

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. . .we all ate heartily including crocks of tiramisu for dessert . . . .

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oh. . . and three bottles of vino too.This is going to be a great trip!!!!!

Lets Go France!

On the road for another adventure . . .

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Things went fine with our flight. No delays or bad weather. Food was even half good. Only bad part was the seating. There is a Consumer Advocate group in the US that is filing a lawsuit against the airlines because the seats are too close together causing a safety hazard if an EVACUATION IS Warranted. I guess American Airlines must be part of that suit. My seat was so close to the one in front of me my knees were in direct contact the whole flight. Trying to sleep in a comfortable position was IMPOSSIBLE. The next move to save space will have you in a standing position!!!! Like in a cattle pen!! Well . ..  I guess there is always first class with the little ‘pods’. . . . emJay has already moved into her European ‘ooh-la-la’ hairstyle. . . FUN!!!

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Once everyone settled in and the lights were dimmed it looks like a spaceship on board . . .

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One interesting note is as I was loading up a movie I saw we were traveling 4,165 miles from Chicago to Paris. Almost exactly the mileage I has just ridden on the Northern Tier across the U.S.. . .

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. . . but instead of taking three months, it would only take 7 hours!!!!

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Things were in chaos at the train station at Charles De Gaulle because, naturally this is France and part of the SNFC was on strike . . . the ticket offices were closed and all tickets were being purchased from machines only. Not too big a deal but of the three available there was only one working. One of the staff still working was constantly trying to get the two broken ones going.  I must say though the staff have ‘snappy’ uniforms!!!!

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We would take the TGV high speed train from Paris to Avignon, our home for the night. Travels between 150-200 mph and the ride is as smooth as silk!!!

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We are staying the night at the Cloitre de St Louis which is situated in an old Jesuit monastery. NICE!!!!!

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. . . a GREAT setting right in the middle of town.

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. . . with a VERY nicely appointed room.

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Time to eat . . . we considered the kitty restaurant, where there are resident cats that walk around and rub up against your legs while you are eating. But . . . it ended up being a tea room and had closed for the day.

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So we went to L’Epicerie, a restaurant the locals frequent that is located right next to one of the best examples of gothic architecture left in Europe. Eglise St Pierre.

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The French know how to make salads . . . a meal in itself . . .

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. . . but that didn’t stop me from having a nice steak and emJay having a YUMMY lamb shank . . .

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. . . all in a picture perfect evening setting . . . right next to the 14th century St. Pierre’s.

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. . . and the place was filled, on a Thursday evening!!!!!

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. . . as we returned to our hotel,  we found it had turned into an enchanted looking forest . . .

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. . . the best thing about this trip already though is spending precious time with my Smoochie after not seeing her for 3 months. Never again will I be gone that long . . . I missed her too much!!!!

Pre-Provence

After just coming off the three month Northern Tier bicycle trip of 4,282 miles and 127,000 feet of climbing, it seems like there might be time for one more trip to wind down the 2017 biking year . . .

How about something EASIER????

Lets see  . . . the check list should include:

  • No hauling 60 pounds of gear
  • No sleeping in tents
  • No cooking one pot meals for 15 riders
  • No cooking AT ALL
  • Always knowing where you will be sleeping at night
  • Having a bathroom closer than 2 blocks away
  • Having nice towels to use after a hot shower
  • Not having to worry about logging trucks running you over

If you read my Northern Tier journal, you get the idea.

Sound sort of dull . . . maybe, but after three months of crossing some of the some desolate areas known to man (eastern Montana and North Dakota) a nice trip to the south of France might just be in order!!!!

We are heading off to the Provence area of France and staying near Avignon and Luberon Regional Park. It’s supposed to be BEAUTIFUL biking . . . so we will see.

We’ll be staying in this cozy four bedroom, 17th century, stone farmhouse with three other couples also from MSN . . .

so . . . we have the whole place to ourselves. We’ll ride loops from the house each day. NO PACKING AND MOVING every day . . . Nice!!!

The first step of course it getting across the pond. Hope the plane is more comfortable than the one I returned on from Portland, ME after the Northern Tier . . .

. . . once on the ground, it is the TGV from Paris to Avignon and them a chauffeured ride, provided by John and Diana, to our little house in the country.

The day before we left, Connie arrived home. The poor girl had gone to pieces after the end of the Northern Tier!! She has gotten herself back together and is ready for the next adventure (although it won’t be in FR. Bikes are being supplied!!!)

Can’t wait . . .